Sizes 14, 16, 18
Instructions are for size 14, changes for sizes 16 and 18 are in parentheses.
MATERIALS—Bear Brand Standard Knitting Worsted, 9 (9-10) skeins.
Bucilla Plastic Knitting Needles, 1 pair each Sizes 4 and 6.
MEASUREMENTS OF GARMENT—Length from back neck to lower edge of hem 24¾ (25-25¼) ins.
Width of back at underarm 24 (25½-26½) ins.; of each front 12½ (13-13½) ins.
Sleeves—width at underarm 17 (17½-18) ins.
GAUGE: 5 sts = 1 inch; 7 rows = 1 inch
BACK—With size 4 needles, cast on 175 (181-187) sts. Work stockinette st—p 1 row, k 1 row—for 10 rows for hem.
Next row—wrong side—K, inserting needle in back loop of sts for turning ridge.
With size 6 needles, k 1 row, p 1 row for 16 rows.
First dec. row—right side—K 37 (39-41), * place marker, slip, k and pass, k 35 for gore, k 2 tog.; place marker *; k 23 (25-27); repeat between *'s once, k 37 (39-41); 171 (177-183) sts. Continue stockinette st for 7 rows.
2nd dec. row—K 2 tog., k 35 (37-39); * slip, k and pass, k 33, k 2 tog. *; k 23 (25-27); repeat between *'s once, k 35 (37-39); k 2 tog.; 165 (171-177) sts.
Continue to dec. 1 st each side at underarm edge every 16th row 4 times and at the same time dec. 1 st each side of each of the two gores every 8th row as before, having 1 st less at each side every 2nd dec. row and 2 sts less in each gore after each dec. row; always having 23 (25-27) sts in center section between the two gores, until 14 ins. above hem ridge; 121 (127-133) sts.
Armholes—Continuing gore decs, every 8th row, bind off 4 sts at beg. of next 2 rows for underarm. Bind off 2 sts at beg. of next 6 rows. Dec. 1 st each side every 2nd row 3 (4-5) times. Continue shaping gores until there is only 1 st between decs, in each gore; 67 (71-75) sts. Work even until armhole measures 9¾ (10-10½) ins., straight up from underarm.
Shoulder and Neck Shaping—Bind off 7 (8-9) sts at beg. of next 2 rows; 3 sts at beg. of next 3 rows.
Next row—Bind off 3 sts, work until 15 sts on needle, slip on holder; bind off 11 (13-15) sts; work to end. * Bind off 3 sts at beg. of next 4 rows. Bind off remaining 3 sts *. Take up 15 sts from holder. Beg. at neck edge, repeat between *'s—22 (23-24) sts for each shoulder.
LEFT FRONT—With size 4 needles, cast on 36 (39-42) sts. Work hem as for back, end with k row; cast on 62 sts for hem and front facing.
Next row—K 62, k in back loop of next 36 (39-42) sts for ridge, end at underarm edge; 98 (101-104) sts.
With size 6 needles, work stockinette st, shaping underarm edge and armhole as on back having below armhole 93 (96-99) sts; after shaping armhole 80 (82-84) sts.
Work even until armhole measures 8¾ (9-9¼) ins., end with k row.
Neck and Shoulder Shaping—P 11 (10-9) sts, slip on holder for neck facing, bind off 40 (42-44) sts for neck, p to end. Dec. 1 st at neck edge every row 4 times; every 2nd row 3 times; binding off 7 (8-9) sts once, 3 sts 5 times, on rows beg. from armhole edge, when armhole is same length as on back. Take up 11 (10-9) sts from holder. Dec. 1 st at neck edge every row 4 times; every 2nd row 3 times. Work even on remaining 4 (3-2) sts until same length as front to top of shoulder. Bind off.
RIGHT FRONT—With size 4 needles, cast on 36 (39-42) sts. Work 10 rows of hem, end with a k row at underarm edge. Next row—K in back of each st for ridge, drop yarn; with another strand of yarn, cast on 62 sts on free needle for front hem and facing; break yarn. Take up dropped yarn and k these 62 sts to same needle with sts of front; 98 (101-104) sts. With size 6 needles, work to correspond to left front, until there are 5 rows less than on left front up to beg. of neck shaping, end with p row.
Buttonhole rows—K 22, bind off 5 sts, k until 8 sts from bind-off, bind off 5 sts, k to end. Cast on 5 sts over each buttonhole on next row. Finish to correspond to right front.
SLEEVES—With size 6 needles, cast on 66 (69-72) sts. Work stockinette st for 3 ins. Inc. 1 st each side of next row; repeat incs. every 1¼ ins. 8 times; 84 (87-90) sts. Work even until 15 ins. from beg. Bind off 4 sts at beg. of next 2 rows; 2 sts at beg. of next 8 rows. Dec. 1 st each side every 2nd row 6 (7-8) times; every 4th row 3 times; every 2nd row 3 times. Bind off 2 sts at beg. of next 6 rows; 3 sts at beg. of next 2 rows. Bind off 18 (19-20) sts.
POCKETS—With size 4 needles, cast on 33 sts. Work hem and ridge as on back. With size 6 needles, work stockinette st for 6½ ins. above ridge. Bind off. Make 2.
COLLAR—With size 4 needles, cast on 85 (89-93) sts for facing. P 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row.
Inc. row—Inc. 1 st in first st, k to within 2 sts of end, inc. 1 st in next st, k 1. Repeat these 4 rows 7 times; 101 (105-109) sts. P 1 row, k 1 row. K 1 row from wrong side for turning ridge as before. With size 6 needles, k 1 row, p 1 row.
Dec. row—K 1, slip, k and pass, k to within 3 sts of end, k 2 tog., k 1. P 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row. Repeat last 4 rows 7 times. Bind off 85 (89-93) sts.
CUFFS—With size 4 needles, cast on 70 (73-76) sts. Work same as collar having after increasing 86 (89-92) sts. Make 2.
FINISHING—Block. Sew seams. Sew in sleeves with seam at center underarm. Turn up hem at lower edge and sew. Turn back 31 sts of each front edge for facing and hem to wrong side. Fold collar along ridge and weave side edges tog. Sew cuffs in same way. Sew collar facing to neck edge with right side of facing to right side of coat and ends of collar 7 sts from front. Sew seam binding to this seam holding collar in to 14¾ (15½-16¼) ins., weave other edge of collar to back neck, covering seam. Weave tog. 7 sts at top of facing. Tack sides of cuff tog. from lower edge to within 1 in. of ridge. Sew cuff facing to sleeve, with right sides tog., placing seam of cuff at back of sleeve, 2½ ins. from sleeve seam, as illustrated. Sew other edge of cuff to wrong side of sleeve, covering first seam.
Hem pockets and sew to right side of fronts with front pocket edge at inside edge of front facing and bound-off edge at top of front hem. Press seams. Sew 2 buttons on each cuff to form links, tacking cuff to sleeve under link. Sew on button.
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