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PARKA No. 2387-A

MATERIALS: Chadwick's Red Heart Sports Yarn, 6 balls (1 oz. balls).
Milward's Phantom Knitting Pins, 1 pair No. 1 (2½ mm. size) and 1 pair No. 3 (3 mm. size).
Milward's Steel Crochet Hook No. 5.

GAUGE: (After Blocking) 7 sts make 1 inch; 11 rows make 1 inch.

Starting at bottom of bertha, with No. 3 needles cast on 196 sts. 1st, 3rd and 5th rows: K across. 2nd and 4th rows: P across. 6th, 8th and 10th rows: K across. 7th and 9th rows: P across. These 10 rows constitute the pattern. Repeat pattern once more. Then work 1st to 5th rows incl. 26th row: K across, knitting together every 27th and 28th st (189 sts). Work 9 more rows in pattern. 36th row: K 2 tog., (k 25, k 2 tog.) 6 times, k 25 (182 sts). Work 9 more rows. 46th row: K across, knitting together every 25th and 26th st (175 sts). Work 9 more rows. 56th row: K 2 tog., (k 23, k 2 tog.) 6 times; k 23 (168 sts). Work 8 more rows. Next row: K together every 5th and 6th st (140 sts). Change to No. 1 needles and work tightly in ribbing of k 2, p 2, for ¾ inch (neck band). Bind off loosely in ribbing.

HOOD … Starting at front edge, with No. 1 needles cast on 146 sts and work in pattern as for bertha for 75 rows (rows are quickly counted by multiplying ridges by 5). 76th row: K 70, k 2 tog., k 2, k 2 tog., k 70 (144 sts). Work 9 more rows. 86th row: K 69, k 2 tog., k 2, k 2 tog., k 69 (142 sts). Work 9 more rows. 96th row: K 68, k 2 tog., k 2, k 2 tog., k 68 (140 sts). Work 1 more row. 98th row: K 67, k 2 tog., k 2, k 2 tog., k 67 (138 sts). Work 7 more rows. 106th row: K 66, k 2 tog., k 2, k 2 tog., k 66 (136 sts). Bind off 2 sts at beginning of each row for remainder of piece and continue to dec. 2 sts at center in same manner as before on the following rows: 108th, 116th, 118th, 126th and 128th (82 sts remain). Work 7 more rows (68 sts). Bind off loosely. Press pieces lightly through a damp cloth. Fold hood at center, crosswise, having purled side of 1st and last ribs toward you. Sew the 2 back edges together, making a neat seam. Press seam open. Sew top edge of bertha (ribbing) along lower edge of hood, being sure purled side of 1st and last ribs of bertha is on right side.

CORD … Cut 8 strands of yarn, each 4 yds. long. Twist strands tightly; double twisted strands and give them a 2nd twist in the opposite direction. Tie a close knot at the free end and trim evenly.

Run the opposite end through neckband, under 2 k-ribs and over 4 (right side).

TASSELS (Make 2) … Cut a cardboard 4 inches square. Place two 6-inch strands of yarn across cardboard. Wind yarn around cardboard 100 times (across 6-inch strands). Pick up both ends of 6-inch strands and tie securely. Slip tassel off cardboard, wind yarn several times around near top and tie securely. Join a tassel to each end of cord. Try on parka and fold back a cuff.

SOCKS No. 2387-B

MATERIALS: Chadwick's Red Heart Sports Yarn, 2 balls (1 oz. balls).
4 double-pointed bone needles No. 3 (3 mm. size).

GAUGE: (Stockinette st) 7 sts make 1 inch; 9 rnds make 1 inch.

CUFF … Starting at top, cast on 54 sts on 3 needles (18 sts on each needle). Join, being careful not to twist sts. 1st to 5th rnds incl: K around. 6th to 10th rnds incl: P around. These 10 rnds constitute the pattern. Repeat pattern twice more. Then work in stockinette st (k each rnd) for 5½ inches.

HEEL … Slip 12 sts of 2nd needle onto 3rd needle (this is heel needle). Then divide the remaining sts equally on other 2 needles. Work back and forth over heel needle as follows: 1st row: Sl 1 st as if to p, p 1, * k 2, p 2. Repeat from * across. 2nd row: Sl 1 st as if to k, k 1, * p 2, k 2. Repeat from * across. Repeat these last 2 rows alternately until heel piece measures 2½ inches. Next row: With right side toward you, work in pattern across 1st 18 sts, p 2 tog., turn. Following row: K 1, p 2, k 2, p 2, k 2 tog., turn. Next row: P 1, k 2, p 2, k 2, p 2 tog., turn. Repeat these last 2 rows alternately until 8 sts remain on heel needle. Next rnd: K across heel needle, then pick up 12 sts along left side of heel (1st needle). K sts of next 2 needles onto 2nd needle; with 3rd needle pick up 12 sts along other side of heel, k 4 sts from 1st needle. There are now 16 sts on 1st and 3rd needles, and 24 sts on 2nd or instep needle. Work in rnds (k each rnd), decreasing on every other rnd as follows: 1 st at end of 1st needle, 1 st at both ends of 2nd needle, and 1 st at beginning of 3rd needle, until 48 sts remain. Work straight until piece measures 2 inches shorter than foot.

TOE … There should be 14 sts on 1st needle, 20 sts on 2nd needle and 14 sts on 3rd needle. Slip 2 sts from 1st and 3rd needles onto 2nd needle. End of rnd is center of sole. * K to within 3 sts from end of 1st needle, k 2 tog., k 1. On 2nd needle: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k to within last 3 sts, then k 2 tog., k 1. On 3rd needle: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k to end of rnd. Work 1 rnd straight. Repeat from * until 16 sts remain. Transfer the sts onto 2 needles, having 8 sts on each needle, divided so that sole lies flat. Bind off, knitting together 1 st from each needle.

MITTENS No. 2387-C

MATERIALS: Chadwick's Red Heart Sports Yarn, 3 balls (1 oz. balls).
4 double-pointed bone needles No. 2 (2¾ mm. size).

GAUGE: (Stockinette st) 8 sts make 1 inch; 10 rnds make 1 inch.

PATTERN FOR CUFF … 1st to 5th rnds incl: P around. 6th to 10th rnds incl: K around.

LEFT MITTEN … Cast on 117 sts on 3 needles (39 sts on each needle). Join, being careful not to twist sts, and work in cuff pattern, decreasing 10 sts evenly apart on the 6th, 16th, 26th, 36th, 46th, 56th and 66th rnds—be sure decreases do not fall over those previously made (47 sts remain). Work straight in stockinette st (k each rnd) for ¾ inch. Place marker in line with joining of work and continue as follows: 1st rnd: Starting at marker, k 22, O (beginning of thumb), k 25. 2nd and all even rnds: K around. 3rd rnd: K 22, O, k 1, O, k 25. 5th rnd: K 22, O, k 3, O, k 25. 7th rnd: K 22, O, k 5, O, k 25. Continue thus until there are 70 sts in rnd, ending with an even rnd. Next rnd: Starting at marker, k 22, place next 23 sts on safety pin, for thumb; cast on 6 sts and continue around (53 sts). Work over these 53 sts in rnds for 3 inches. Starting at marker, work as follows:
1st rnd: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 20, k 2 tog., k 2, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 21, k 2 tog., k 1. 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th rnds: K around. 3rd rnd: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 18, k 2 tog., k 2, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 19, k 2 tog., k 1. 5th rnd: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 16, k 2 tog., k 2, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 17, k 2 tog., k 1. 7th rnd: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 14, k 2 tog., k 2, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 15, k 2 tog., k 1. 9th rnd: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 12, k 2 tog., k 2, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 13, k 2 tog., k 1 (33 sts). 10th rnd: K 1, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 10, k 2 tog., k 2, sl 1, k 1, p.s.s.o., k 11, k 2 tog., k 1. Now dec. 4 sts each rnd until 9 sts remain. Break off, leaving an 8-inch length of yarn. Run yarn through remaining sts and fasten on wrong side.

THUMB … Pick up 6 sts from palm, transfer the 23 sts of thumb onto 2 more needles. Dec. at palm side on next 3 rnds to 23 sts. Work to within ½ inch end of thumb; k together every 5th and 6th st on next rnd. Work 1 rnd even. * K 1, k 2 tog. Repeat from * until 9 sts remain. Break off and finish as before.

RIGHT MITTEN … Work to correspond, reversing shaping.